Cuetzala in Rogers Park isn't your typical hole-in-the-wall taqueria. Most of the people here are regulars, knowing exactly what they want before the server even seats them. Everyone is laid-back, and although the food comes quickly, nobody is in a rush to leave. The small dining area merges with the kitchen and if you listen carefully, you'll hear the harmony of clanking pots, sizzling meats and snippets of Spanish music. The room has a festive vibe with glass Aztec heads holding bundles of napkins, miniature clay pots dangling from the walls and bulbs of garlic strung near the entrance.
The menu offers several standout items, but you will be hard-pressed to find tamale nejos at similar eateries. Unlike traditional tamales wrapped in steamed corn husks, the nejos lay open on banana leaves and are served with your choice of red or green mole. If you're in the mood for smooth and slightly bitter, try the red; its thick texture has the appearance of melted dark chocolate. The green has a grainier consistency and is a great choice for garlic lovers. Mole is typically paired with poultry and other meat dishes, but one taste of the stuff at Cuetzala and you'll be using it like ketchup.
Average cost: $10-$20
Centerstage Reviewer: Stacy Warden
