Puerto Ricans place a special emphasis on family within their culture, and in the hearts of many is a fond reserve for their endless count of cousins. The folks behind Cousin's Grill paid homage with the name, which stirs up memories of holiday affairs with the primos as the kitchen staff stirs up pots of carne guisado (beef stew) and other island specialties.

The diner, fit for 20, sits sandwiched in the Hall Mall of Belmont-Cragin where neighbors include a number of clothing stores, a Blockbuster and an express DMV. Actually a plaza, the Hall saw its share of failed business (notice the boarded up skeletal remains of a sprawled Menards), however, the retail space worked just fine for Cousin's celebrating five-plus years.

Inside, four walls of clementine strokes canoodle clientele representative of the area. In an era where Chicagoans get robbed at the pump and at the meters, the standby charms Cragin's large Puerto Rican community not featuring the trek to Humboldt Park nor accommodating its pay box parking. Why, when Cousin's provides the same home-cooked meals with infinite parking space?

Free wi-fi and track lights zipping in a room where a flat screen hangs aside la isla inspired photos and artwork impresses only minimally when the clear approach resides with the menu. All plates, from the never-fails bistec en cebollado (steak grilled in onions) to the lechon asado (oven roasted pork) linger below $8. Try the Chupacabra sandwich with steak, lechon and ham, named after the illusive goat-sucking creature popular in Puerto Rican folklore. For dessert, sample the pastelillo de guayava: guava-filled pastries sprinkled with powdered sugar.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: David-Anthony Gonzalez