For those craving some intimacy tucked away from the plate-breaking and family-style gatherings in Greek Town, Costa's white-tablecloth tables, terra-cotta tile floors, wood paneling and textured white walls create the necessary rustic feel, and live piano provides the soundtrack (sometimes the pianist switches to the bouzouki, a stringed Greek instrument). An elegant Mediterranean villa setting, Costa's is truly cozy and romantic, and the cuisine lives up to expectations.

Experience dining spectacles like the saganaki meze, sauteed imported kasseri cheese theatrically flamed in brandy at your table. A perfectly cooked whole-roasted snapper is boned at the table and then drizzled with olive oil and oregano. The broiled lamb chops are substantial and delicious, as are the lamb kebobs. Pasta options include baked spaghetti with a rich meat sauce and various Greek cheeses, and an angel hair pasta tossed with grilled shrimp or chicken, artichokes, tomatoes, feta and pesto. Traditional specialties like moussaka, dolmades and gyros are very good and can be combined, encouraging sampling. Service is excellent.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jean Kwon