Logan Square has long lacked a proper pizza place - while several fine institutions are within delivery range, sitting down for a nice slice would take some travel. The introduction of Ciao Napoli not only fixes that problem, it also becomes one of only a handful of Neapolitan-style pizzerias in the whole town.

Local artists' oil paintings give a touch of class, but the hosts are friendly and casual. You can choose to start the evening by ordering your centerpieces - bottles of Farraelle and Natia water - or they can be cleared for a bottle of wine (or tap water). Bruschetta ($2-3 for two pieces, minimum two orders) comes in varieties like the prosciutto and arugula with truffle oil, or the Buona with gorgonzola, sliced pears and walnuts. A variety of hot and cold antipasta are also available, including deep fried calamari ($8) and "sushi parma" (Fior di latte mozzarella and prosciutto di parma rolled and served with a side of pesto, $9).

Then of course, there is the pizza. True to form, Ciao Napoli serves a blackened, chewy crust with dough bubbled up under its ingredients. Options like the Pizza Capricciosa moderately apply tomato sauce, bufala mozzarella, kalamata olives, artichokes, mushrooms and prosciutto cotto, or the four seasons pizza changes its toppings to whatever is in season. A 12-inch "Napoli" size comfortably feeds one (for $11-$15), or a couple of people can dig into the 18-inch "Metro" (for $15-$20).

And If you somehow have room left, there's homemade desserts to be had: tiramasu, zeppole, assorted gelatos and more for $4-$8.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Dan Morgridge