Glance up from the abundance of red meat likely to be occupying your plate at this Streeterville steakhouse, and you just might catch a glimpse of the inanimate head of the animal from whence your meal came. In fact, a penchant for the wares of the taxidermy trade is not the only decorating touch that gives this room a brawny club-like atmosphere. Dark wood paneling as far as the eye can see lends an air of upscale exclusivity to the proceedings.

But circuses aside, the clear focus at this incarnation of the Providence, RI chain is the beef, and Capital Grille excels in this area. As proud of their dry aging process as the parents of a child in the kindergarten play, Capital Grille puts its humidity-controlled aging locker right up front for the world to see. But as unnecessarily ostentatious as that might seem, the proof of the process's value is in the quality of the meal. You will certainly pay the expected price for such a fine tract of beef, but you are unlikely to be disappointed. The key lime pie is an excellent dessert choice for the bottomless stomach, and the deep wine list is blue chip in both selection and price.

Centerstage Reviewer: Mark Loehrke