Open since 1963, a recent makeover turned the decidedly un-hip Italian ristorante into a modern spot more in keeping with it increasingly chic neighbors. The restaurant drowns itself in ambience with an elegant decorative scheme that includes a huge mural depicting a scene from an Italian restaurant, exposed brick, mellow lighting (lighting that, during the day, is canceled out by the sun emitting from the open windows facing Clark) and comfortable booths that make you feel like you are sitting on air. Be glad that Calo's is so aesthetically pleasing, because the slow (but friendly) service will give you plenty of time to observe the surroundings.

There are two sections in Calo's: Facing the entrance on the left is the bar, stocked with plenty of spirits and seats for watching sports on the big-screen television. Head to the right to dine from Calo's extensive menu and wine list.

With Alaskan king crab legs and baby back ribs on the menu, you'll be able to find something you like, but stick to the staples of Italian food, such as pastas (gorgonzola gnocchi, farfalle con scallope) and panini. (Though the bleu cheese burger may sound like a happening time, the person at my table who ordered it was less than impressed). Its self-proclaimed "famous" thin crust pizzas lays claim to a pretty serious neighborhood fanbase.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jon Graef