Dining at Cafe 103 feels like you're inside a Rubik's Cube or the Saturday Night Fever dance floor. Aside from a hand-woven wreath on the front wall and some orange stars, the room is an endless white, orange and beige colored grid. If you had a life-sized set of magnetic circles, you could heave 'em on the wall and indulge in a game of giant checkers.

Despite the spacey cubic confines, the food here is a simple, straightforward New American farm-focused cuisine. It's the kind of haute tasty grub you usually find at North Side stalwarts like Blackbird or Sepia, not in blue-collar Beverly. New chef Rob Kurecki picked up where his talented predecessor, Thomas Eckert, left off by providing customers with roast poultry bathed in a rich mushroom sauce. The biggest difference is that Kurecki dialed back on the more obscure ingredients, offering free range Amish chicken in his version, versus rarer guinea hen.

Kurecki's menu also indulges in gourmeting up more simple familiar fare like walleye, by pan searing it and setting it off with a tangy orange tomato vinaigrette. But his greatest genius might be in celebrating local bounty through desserts, including smart repetitive riffs on a single ingredient like airy whipped blueberry pannacotta with fresh blueberries and rich blueberry sauce.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant