Cafe Marbella's chef and co-owner, Virgilio Trujillo, tempted me to eat a gypsy's arm, or brazo de Gitano, during my visit here. It's more innocent (and better-looking) than it sounds: chocolate sponge cake filled with chocolate cream and pineapple and touched with just enough liquor to put our child to sleep without a fight, and more than enough to inspire a return visit.

Named after a resort town on the Mediterranean near Malaga, Spain, Cafe Marbella Tapas brings together three distinct Spanish regions into its fare: Malaga, Catalan and Country Basque. Two paellas highlight the differences in the regions: the Malaga marinera is loaded with seafood and the Catalan valenciana includes pork, chicken and chorizo in addition to seafood. The paellas are part of an extensive menu of entrees that complement the cold and hot tapas. Stuffed chicken breasts, pork chops, rib eyes and breaded steak are also available, along with the zortziko de mariscos, a seafood combo sautéed with garlic, fresh tarragon and shrimp butter sauce ($16). The tapas range from $4 for gazpacho to $9 for calamares, which can be sautéed or grilled and flavored accordingly. The bilingual menu is a nice touch, as are the chef's specials: the cordero al romero (Australian leg of lamb scallopini marinated with fresh rosemary and garlic and served with potatoes) was only $9.

The square, open dining room has window-seating available for groups of eight or more. Opened in 2008, the BYO restaurant recommends reservations on the weekends and encourages patrons to bring bags of fruit and wine to make their own sangria.

Centerstage Reviewer: Robert Duffer