Bruna's had me at the antipasti. When our heaping plate of meats (three kinds), giant hunks of blue cheese, anchovies and olives were squeezed between our wine glasses, bread basket and tureen of fresh parmesean, I knew we had found a winner.

And how. We dined on giant platefuls of some of the best and simplest pasta I've ever tasted, seated right next to the owner and his wife, who gave us their hellos and complimentary glasses of Limoncello between their own snippets of conversation.

The restaurant opened in 1933 and maintains a secretive feel. Wine bottles rest along the windowsills, making it almost impossible to sneak a peek inside. What lies beyond is a modest bar area and a larger back room, both boldly decorated in murals, photographs and bottle upon bottle of wine (do try the private label choices). The pricing is utterly ordinary, with pasta dishes clocking in at about $13 and seafood, veal and chicken priced closer to $20. The wine list is a robust and pricey one, a pleasant nod to the fact that good wine should be drank and bad wine should be ignored.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz