Whenever a new Indian joint opens up, the burning questions on everyone's mind is "What's the lunch buffet like?". It's true, a bad buffet can break an otherwise fantastic Indian restaurant, but Bombay Kabab House doesn't have to worry about any of that. Available seven days a week at $7.95 on weekdays and a dollar more on weekends, the buffet here elevates its friendly neighborhood haunt status to the higher realm of "destination lunch spot." Tandoori chicken, chicken curry and palak paneer anchor the midday selection, with heavier lamb and even goat dishes filtering into the lineup from time to time. Veggie options make up a huge part of the regular menu. The bhindi masala (okra with spices) and dal makhani (black lentils) are the rock stars of the sans-meat section. For the carnivores among us, Bombay takes tandoori preparation to new levels of excitement. If you're a little overwhelmed, just order the chef's special tandoori medley, which includes chicken, shrimp and lamb. Of course, no raving review of an Indian eatery would be complete without full disclosure on the naan front—Bombay offers the typical sesame, potato and wheat versions of the fluffy flatbread, as well as quirkier variations like kashmiri (stuffed with pineapple, cherries and walnut), khurmi (stuffed with garlic, tomato and chilis), and the chef's special bread (stuffed with nuts and raisins). Entrees mostly fall into the $10-$16 range.

Located on the border of Rogers Park and Evanston, Bombay Kabab sports diner-style decor left over from Thai Peppers—the uninspiring prior occupant of this Howard Street storefront. Pleasant and attentive service enhances the dining experience, but you’ll really feel at home when the owners and chef come out of the kitchen to check in with you.

Centerstage Reviewer: K. Tighe