Blu Coral epitomizes the changing face of Wicker Park. It sits on what you can easily describe as a so-far-ungentrified stretch, yet lies close to cutesy cafes on Division and the lively North-Damen-Milwaukee intersection. With a funky vibe and room for nearly 200 patrons, this stand-out sushi spot signals its block will have its own share of swanky boutiques soon.

After stints at Blue Fin, Starfish and suburban Wildfish, sushi chef Jinwoo Han brings nearly a decade of experience and some wildly experimental offerings to Blu Coral's menu. The phyllo-wrapped ahi appetizer, a baked puff of dough stuffed with tuna, cream cheese and avocado and served with creamy wasabi and sweet eel sauces, strikes a perfect balance between varying textures and tastes. Few of Blu Coral's dizzying array of maki will look familiar, with combinations such as soft shell crab, seared spicy tuna and orange tobiko and shrimp, asparagus and spicy chili sauce. Sushi beginners have no fear: The menu also offers nearly three dozen choices of sashimi and almost as many simple maki rolls to satisfy any palate. Most specialty and signature maki cost $11-$17, with more standard rolls around $6.

As if the extravagant fish isn't enough of a draw, Blu Coral doubles as both a restaurant and a late-night lounge. Royal shades of blue and purple dominate the dimly lit dining area, and the vast wine and sake selections make filling your stomach with that ideal blend of chow and booze oh-so-simple. Street parking is limited during busy hours, but there is free parking in the West Town lot located behind the restaurant.

Centerstage Reviewer: Laura Brown