Tucked in an unassuming spot under a blue awning on Evanston's Clark Street, Big Ka Hoo Na's real ambience comes from the Party City tropical flower cut-outs and solid-colored plastic leis that are tacked on the wall. Wicker-woven pineapples hang from the storefront window, and purple, red, orange and yellow stripes can be seen above the door, wall menu and ordering hut (which comes complete with luau lights, bamboo poles and straw roof).
The corridor wall, which spills out into the tiny main dining room, is covered with paneled mirrors that stretch to the ceiling, reflecting diners' faces from their wooden tables and clunky padded-green-vinyl chairs below.
Big Ka Hoo Na's decor appears a bit unfocused: a Coca-Cola refrigeration case is plopped next to the ordering hut, while cans of Spam are stacked above a sound system in a visible alcove next to the kitchen. The menu is just as eclectic, with offerings like miso soup, teriyaki beef and chicken, Thai curry and it's-what-I-expected-all-along island cuisine like Hawaiian sliders with kewpie mayo and banana ketchup, coconut shrimp fried with panko and the Big Ka Hoo Na Combo: a trio of BBQ beef, chicken and short ribs. Of course, the classic plate lunch comes with scoops of white rice and macaroni salad.
Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Puhala
