Just steps south of Devon Street's frenzied swarm lies Bhabi's Kitchen, a popular pan-Indian restaurant that upgraded from four snug tables to seating for 60 in 2006, a textbook example of matching supply with demand. With a staff of just six, including the owner and his wife, the wait can vary drastically and you'd be wise to adhere to the BYOB policy if you turn cranky at the lack of expedient service.

Against bright orange, yellow and green walls, Bhabi's plates meals that combine both Northern and Southern Indian flair, with entrees priced from $8-$18. Vegetarians will appreciate an accommodating selection of dishes to choose from, with classics like saag paneer and less common items like bagarey baigan (Indian eggplant cooked in its natural oils and served in a snappy, nutty gravy). Staples like chicken masala also grace the menu, as well as more intensely prepared delicacies like lamb paya (ankle bone soup with garlic and ginger).

But Bhabi's truly specializes in breads, boasting about 20 varieties that range from traditional tandoori-style flat bread (try the naan with onion, garlic and green pepper) to sweeter parathas with pistachios, mixed fruit and powdered sugar. Perfect for dipping in succulent sauces or to help temper the more fiery ingredients of some of their dishes, Bhabi's breads will most certainly fulfill your every knead.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Anna Pulley