Formerly: BB's, brought to you by the folks from Stanley's Kitchen and Tap, is on a mission to bring you comfort food from wherever it can be found. A sign at the entrance promises patrons "excellent" food, something that usually spells disaster; in this case, the self-generated hype actually proves true.

The globe-trekking menu has rib-sticking dishes like Argentinean beef empanadas, a chicken schnitzel and a nice salad nicoise (yes, even the salad is filling). Co-owner Jack Binyon named the place after his father, Bud (a legendary restaurateur himself), and dad's signature turtle soup is a popular treat. Other, more local items are also available, with a steak-and-fries meal popping out of the margin of the menu alongside trios of mini-burgers and pork sandwiches.

The decor blends international and local inspiration as well. Outside, the green-and-white checked chairs look like they were stolen off a street in Paris. The interior greets you with a large bar with a crafty Belgian tap system that makes your beer ice-cold (though the draft selection is pretty average). The interior has the feel of a French brasserie, with leather-topped barstools of varying heights providing most of the seating (leaning back is not advised).

Framed photos of rock stars and celebrities remind you that you're still stateside, and as Tom Waits glowers at you while you wait for your food, you might wish the music selection had more in common with the artwork. But once the plate hits the table, most other things are quickly forgotten.

Centerstage Reviewer: Mac McCormick