A red-brick arched entryway, its stoop darkened by the shadows of the rusty yellow girders of the Lake Street L, hides amongst the meat packers and auto repair shops. It's such an incongruous location for a good restaurant, that stepping across the threshold feels a bit like discovering a magical gateway a la Platform 9-3/4's at Kings Cross Station in the Harry Potter books.
Unlike the nearby Alhambra, a palace of excess decked out with fountains and belly dancers, Baba Pita is a sparsely decorated affair. Though it sports a few flower planters, warm wood chairs and a smattering of tables, this cheap spot definitely focuses on the food.
Familiar favorites like crispy falafel balls (nestled in pita pockets with creamy, tahini-drizzled Jerusalem salad) and garlicky cinnamon-spiced, grill-charred beef schwarma are spot on. Baba's basmati rice, flecked with dill and creamy beans, offers a welcome change from bland, over-steamed plain white versions. Don't neglect the kibbeh, a golden fried pocket bursting with spicy beef and rich walnuts. Baba Pita also features daily specials, which include an appetizer, salad, soup, entrée, drink and dessert for $7.99. You don’t have to be an oil-rich sultan to dine here.
Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant
