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Is this the new Italian?

Thursday Feb 03, 2005.     By Misty Tosh

Food Feed

I absolutely love discovering a new take on an old favorite. You'd think that I'd have tasted every single variation of pasta and sauce there is after three decades on this earth, but low and behold there is always a surprise right around the corner. My latest came in the form of a little bombshell delicacy called "Manti." The proper food definition of manti rambles on about this small ancient Turkish pasta filled with meat and bunched up at the corners to form a ball, much like a tortellini. My definition, on the other hand, would be Holy Christ!

The setting for this new discovery was the charming Turquoise Cafe, one of my favorite neighborhood restaurants. The owner Zengo is a perfect host, always so happy to see everyone and a real foodie; he just stared importing his homelands premier Turkish olive oil, which he serves at every table with warm, homemade sesame bread (always alongside a small dish of addictive hummus or maybe a creamy carrot, yogurt dip, too). I especially adore ZiZi, the ever-present old-school waiter because of A) His lack of English and incessant accent-heavy ramblings coupled with wild, frenzied giggles and B) They way he'll create a meal for you that isn't on the menu, using the what could be terrifying phrase "Trust me." I always do, though, and he is always right on the money.

Manti ($13.95) came to me via word of mouth, though. My buddy Lisa, who is my usual dinner partner in crime, had tasted it on a recent visit and had been attempting to convince me it was rave worthy. I'd remained pretty skeptical until the latest visit, when I'd had just enough wine to take a stab at the 'ole meat situation again.

After a single bite, I knew I'd happened upon one of those types of dishes that are just flabbergasting to the taste buds. Served liked it was just a big fat bowl of pasta alfredo, the presentation was a bit deceiving, but after rooting around through the sauce and discovering noodle after fluffy noodle full of a slightly spicy ground meat and swishing hunks of warm bread through the extremely creamy (but somehow super light) garlic yogurt sauce, I realized I'd never tasted anything quite like it.

The top of the dish was coated with a heavenly marinara sauce, full of fresh tomatoes, chunks of garlic and loads of chili oil. Of course I had to dissect a few noodles to inspect the meat: I was stunned after opening the pasta pockets because the meat, which tasted so dense and intense, was barely more than a pinky thumbnail of nutmeg-scented ground beef. Those crazy Turkish cooks, so clever.

The Final Rave: Though not on the menu, you must order the potato soufflé. It's about a half pound of chunky potatoes, smothered in rich, tangy cheese and baked to golden perfection in a cast iron skillet.

KEEP IT GOING:

Read it: Women & Children First
The girlies at this world-class feminist bookstore urge you (no really, I said read it!) to read up on your Turkish history with "Women in Middle East History."

Eat it: Cousin's
Probably the most popular Turkish restaurant in the city, these kids at the Irving Park location get a little nutty on Monday's with the Master of Tango, the one and only Yildirim. Look out!

Drink it: A La Turka
Pour up the super-strong Turkish coffee and fire up the hookah, the belly dancers are rolling all over the place at this popular weekend hangout.

Get crazy with it: Chicago Turkish Festival
Spread the Turkish love at this now annual festival, which claims to be the "model" for all ethnic festivals. You'll just have to join them in September to see if they live up to the hype.