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Make sure you've tried some of 2004's notable openings.

Thursday Jan 06, 2005.     By Centerstage Chicago Staff

Food Feed

It's the movie-store syndrome: You hear of countless great movies hitting the theater, but when you're standing in Blockbuster, you can't think of a single flick you've wanted to rent. Don't find yourself scratching your head food-wise. Here's a smattering of more great restaurants that opened in 2004, ones you might have put on your mental "to check out" list but never visited. Ink it on the list in pen this time around, and get your fill of some of 2004's notable openings.

The Hot Spot
File under: Blissful breakfast
Easily outclassing most of its Logan Square neighbors in menu as well as looks, spanking new, sunbeam filled breakfast-and-lunch gem The Hot Spot has already hit a few homeruns. One dish in particular is completely out of the park: An immediate house favorite, the "Loganberry" sour cream pancakes come stuffed with imported lingonberries, then plated up with honey butter and homemade apple cherry compote on the side (regulars know the best way to eat the sliver thin pancakes is smothered in butter and then dunked in the compote).

Other home-style breakfast standouts include thick-cut French toast, simply prepared with just a powdered sugar topping and served with apple-smoked bacon, sausage or ham; and the Texas-style country fried steak, dished up alongside two eggs and smothered in rich mushroom gravy, with a side of onion-filled, chunky fried potatoes. Small touches like the hand-roasted Caffe Umbria coffee from Seattle and the spa-like cucumber-infused table water make breakfast a treat. Come lunchtime, when the sun is pouring in and lighting up the vibrant jungle-green walls, there's no hotter spot in Chicago.

Usagi Ya
File under: So-good sushi
There's nothing better than making a place feel like your own. It's even better when that place is a bit hipper than the corner diner. Usagi Ya more than fits the at-home bill, presenting a modern yet intimate atmosphere (enhanced by enveloping browns and two private, front-of-restaurant, window-side seating areas) that's approachable but fashionable. It's the kind of place you'll want to take friends to, whether they're your Division Street neighbors or in town from rural Kentucky.

Stake out a seat at the sushi bar (be sure to take note of the handmade chopstick lampshades above) and choose from a roster of nearly 30 sushi choices, 20 typical maki options along the lines of spicy hamachi and spider maki, and nearly 20 special maki, which certainly make good on their name. The $8 and up rolls include the fire cracker, a with-a-bang combo of deep-fried white fish, cucumber, avocado, jalapeno, masago and spicy sauce; and summer maki, complete with tuna, yellow tail, cilantro, avocado, green pepper, chili oil, spicy sauce and lime juice. There's also a full menu of cooked pan-Asian fare. BYOB.

JP Chicago
File under: Bistro meets bar
Marc Bortz and Jason Paskewitz have raised their real estate's value by the power of two, opening this American-style bistro next door to their tapas hot spot, Sangria. Once a motorcycle repair shop, roaring appetites have replaced engines at this funky eatery. The motor oil-free interior features red leather banquette seating and cozy four-person tables lit by an overhead skylight, a 40-foot mahogany bar and NY-style subway tiles throughout in a classic-meets-contemporary move.

The seasonally changing menu boasts appetizers along the lines of foie gras, baked escargot, East Coast oysters and crispy duck. Other menu items include the likes of grilled Australian lamb chops, pan seared cod, yellow tail snapper, a daily vegetarian creation and sides like creamy garlic mashed potatoes and peppered baby spinach. Self-describes as an American bistro and liquor bar, a variety of specialty martinis provide a more saccharine alternative to its extensive wine list.

42n Latitude
File under: A classed-up pub
Dark wood, natural brick walls, deep burgundy accents and super-hip lighting create an atmosphere that blends European pub and East Village hangout at 42n Latitude. Open for dinner throughout the week and brunch on the weekend, its focus never sways from the food: its dinner menu covers the culinary map and ranges from $5-$20, with the average entree around $9. Daily soups and salads take care of lighter diners, while those looking for a larger meal can order chicken wings, chicken pot pie, queso fundo (chorizo, chicken and cheese, served with flour tortillas), lamb or jerk pork chops. Service is excellent, and the weekend brunch is a steal, with most entrees ranging from $5-$8. Selections include breakfast standards like scrambled eggs, potatoes and biscuit, as well as French toast in pecan batter, biscuits and gravy, a three-egg omelet of the day and Belgian waffles.

On the pub end of things, the wine list includes white and red, and the full bar also boasts many beers on tap, including Goose Island, Bell's Blue Moon, Harp, Guinness, Bass and Sierra Nevada. Owner Kurt Warnstedt increases tap offerings often; cider is the most recent planned addition. Specialty drinks include mojitos, a lemoncello lemondrop and chocolate raspberry martinis.

Humboldt Pie Cafe
File under: Like Grandma's homemade
This coffee/sandwich/dessert shop, offers a new option for those looking for a respite from cookie-cutter cafes. Instead of the in-and-out style of many "gimme a grande" shops, Humboldt Pie's artistic decor and comfortable couches and tables offer a welcoming setting for those looking for a place to lunch or a homey spot to enjoy a cup of coffee. For those more interested in business-like pursuits, the coffeeshop also offers free wireless Internet.

Though it offers the typical lattes, cappuccinos and chai tea-staples, Humboldt Pie also serves a wide variety of homemade desserts like delicious caramel brownies and, as befits its name, freshly made pies. Two types are available each day; flavors include old favorites like apple and blueberry, as well as pumpkin and strawberry-rhubarb. Prepare to be tempted by the sandwiches as well. The California pepper offers a twist on the ordinary turkey sandwich; it's served on jalapeno bread with cheese, bell peppers and avocado cream.

Buongiorno Cafe
File under: Italian in the a.m.
With its satisfying sandwiches and casual feel, Buongiorno Cafe's welcoming atmosphere quickly transports diners to Italy, without the need to brave the Atlantic. Morning commuters will be happy to know that Buongiorno Cafe opens at 6:30 a.m., with a breakfast menu that includes quick fixes like croissants and muffins, as well as more elaborate fare including a variety of frittatas and breakfast sandwiches. Of course, a cafe is not a cafe without coffee, and this one does not disappoint. The bar in the back serves espresso, cappuccino and lattes, as well as a complete selection of beer, wine and spirits for diners later in the day.

Paninis are the lunchtime staple, the majority of which are available in any of four variations: Puccia, on a hollowed-out loaf of artisan bread; Focaccia, on pizza bread; Pressini, on flat bread and pressed on a grill-press; or Tradizionale, on basil French bread. The pizza selection features traditional Roman-style pizzas, with thin, crispy crusts and very little sauce. With the average entree costing less than $10, a meal here will cost you significantly less than a trip to Italy.