The dirty little secret of many chef-driven restaurants is that, after many years of success, the chef no longer works in the kitchen everyday. For some restaurants this spells inevitable failure. Other restaurants, like Chez Panisse in Berkeley (36 years and counting), keep going strong by picking brilliant successors who can execute the original chef's spirit but meld their own talents into the original vision.
After 10 years, with two successful restaurants (Blackbird, Avec) under his belt, Paul Kahan hasn't completely relinquished his stoves. Even though he has his hands full planning a new palette-pleaser slated to open this fall in the Fulton Market district, Kahan still shows up at Blackbird to collaborate on menus. Mike Sheerin, a former sous chef from the New York's WD-50, reaps the benefit of a daily dose of Kahan.
While WD-50 is a temple of molecular gastronomy, Sheerin has reigned in the lasers and liquid nitrogen at Blackbird. Instead, he's successfully brought a light touch of whimsy to bear on Kahan's seasonal New American fare, such as garnishing parsnip soup with fried and seasoned puffed rice, or pairing smoked grapes with venison. Rather than blowing minds with stark modernity, Sheerin's wiliness is now more about employing classic technique in unconventional, sophisticated ways.
What do you wish you could change/pickle about the Chicago restaurant/food scene? I wish you didn't have to drive to every restaurant you want to go to, especially since I don't have a car.
What would your last meal be?
My mom's linguini with clam sauce.
Where do you eat before or after a shift?
I get coffee at Sip on Grand Avenue before work.
What's the can't-miss dish at Blackbird?
Grilled California sturgeon with oyster mushrooms, spring peas, rye gnocci, guanciale and mustard. I like it 'cause it's like a sandwich with rye bread and mustard.
What should we know about Blackbird that we probably don't?
The four partners who run the restaurant, Donnie Madia, Eduard Seitan, Rick Darmit and Paul Kahan named the holding company for all their businesses 4KH Inc., which stands for "Four Knuckleheads."
Five for Frying is a weekly Food Feature that asks one great chef five fun questions.
