George Bumbaris and Sarah Stegner, co-owners of
Prairie Grass Cafe, are like the culinary version of Bogart and Bacall. They're not romantically involved, as the magnificent screen team was, but as a legendary local kitchen duo, their stars shine just as bright.
Veterans of Chicago's Ritz Carlton, they shelved the four-star glitz, for which they received much acclaim, in favor of more-personalized four-star comfort, with a serious commitment to locally focused cooking at Prairie Grass.
Using organic vegetables from Chicago's Green City Market (Stegner was one of the founding chefs) and Bill Kurtis' hormone-free Tallgrass Beef, they've always been conscious chefs. And on September 16, they hosted a discussion and cooked an all local lunch to celebrate the end of the Chicago's Localvore Challenge, where participants spent a week attempting to eat only locally grown and produced foods.
What do you wish you could change or pickle and preserve about the Chicago restaurant/food/drink scene?
Sarah: I really like what is going on in the drink "scene," with using local ingredients to make the most amazing cocktails. I had a local cherry sangria at National 27 that was great. At Prairie Grass Café, we serve a local strawberry-infused North Shore Vodka drink.
George: Chefs have greater access to seasonal ingredients; our food tastes that much better and the community and environment win, too.
What would your last pastry be?
Sarah: A slice of my Mom's pie—any flavor.
George: A chocolate eclair made by our old pastry chef at the Ritz, En-Ming Su.
Where do you eat/drink before/after a shift?
Sarah: I spend most of my time with my daughter before heading to work. During the week, we go to Lulu's in Evanston, and on Saturdays, we head to the Evanston Farmers Market to get fresh fruit from Morlock Farms.
George: My wife makes the best coffee in town, so we kick back and drink her coffee before I head out for the day.
What's the can't-miss dish at Prairie Grass?
Sarah: I'd say our shepherd's pie or braised short ribs, with homemade barbecue sauce and mashed potatoes. We get calls all the time for both.
George: Weekend Brunch. The PGC benedict—our take on the traditional eggs benedict: two poached eggs, sautéed spinach, Nueske's bacon, English muffin and roasted-tomato hollandaise. Or our potato skins, covered in scrambled eggs, cheddar cheese, Nueske's bacon, scallions and sour cream.
What should we know about Prairie Grass that we probably don't?
Sarah: We make our sausage by hand.
George: Our moussaka is a version of my wife's family recipe. I just tweaked it a bit.
Kinnikinnick* Amazing Greens Recipe
Copyright 2007 Sarah Stegner and George Bumbaris
(Serves 6 people, about 3 cups)
Ingredients:
2 pounds Kinnikinnick's Italian Greens (Cavolo Nero, Spegariello, Minestra Nera and Bietina)
Salt
Half- cup diced onions
3 tablespoons olive oil
Fresh ground black pepper
3 tablespoons butter
Method:
Remove the bottom of the stems. In a pot of well-salted, boiling water, add the greens. (Make sure that there is enough salt in the water that you can taste it.) Cook the greens until very tender, about 10 minutes. Strain the greens, discarding the cooking water, and place the greens immediately in a bowl of cold water.
When the greens have cooled, use your hands to press the water out of them. Rough chop the greens.
In a medium size saute pan, slowly cook the onions in olive oil, salt and pepper. When they are tender, add the butter; when the butter bubbles, add the greens and stir well. Saute until the greens are hot. Taste the greens and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.
Hints:
Try adding red chili pepper flakes and top with shaved parmesan. Serve with roasted chicken, grilled skirt steak or Italian sausage.
* Kinnikinnick is the name of a premiere farm at Green City Market; of course, you can substitute greens from other folks, but it’s best if their organic and even better if their local.
