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Another One Bites The Dust

Depressing restaurant closings of the year…and openings worth their weight in salt.

Monday Jan 01, 2007.     By Michael Nagrant

Food Feed

Chicago has more than 10,000 restaurants: Eat in a different one three times a day for a year and you'd barely have covered 10 percent. Put yourself on this regimen for a decade and you'd never get to them all—many favorites close and many soon-to-be-favorites open.

This year was no exception, and so we welcome 2007 with a look at biggest culinary losses and gains of 2006. The pound-of-carrots carrot cake from Hilary's Urban Eatery (pictured) certainly makes our oh-so-sad cut.

NOW CLOSED

Berghoff Oh how we'll miss you and lunchtime at the bar, a pile of lean corned beef and creamy melted swiss on fennel scented rye bread, with a schmear of dijon mustard and a dollop of palate stinging horseradish.

Trio Ground zero for budding Chicago talent, this is the spot that launched the storied reputations of local culinary luminaries Gale Gand, Rick Tramonto (Tru), Shawn McClain (Spring, Green Zebra, Custom House), and Grant Achatz (Alinea).

Demon Dogs The venerable classic hot dog joint, located under the rusty girders of the Fullerton L stop, fed CTA riders for more than 35 years. Owned by the manager of the band Chicago, it was no Saturday Afternoon in the Park when the doors finally closed.

Hilary's Urban Eatery Opened in 1996, this was the culinary anchor of what would become a hipster version of Michigan Avenue, full of edgy boutiques and divey bars. It's fabled to reopen, but until that happens, we'll miss the carrot cake and BYOB policy.

Settimana Cafe Crispy thin crust 'za and spicy pomodoro, we hardly knew thee. Closely spaced tables and the roar of Division Street traffic made this brick box a little less hip than its overly hip hood—but man, were its Italian eats good.

Rushmore A less surprising closing (rumors of an impending shuttering circulated for years), chefs like Michael Hazen of Ristorante We and Gil Langlois of Lincoln Square's Chalkboard cut their teeth here.

Zephyr Cafe We were taunted by the Brown Bomber's tag line, "lick it before it licks you," for 30 years. Zephyr's mega milk shakes and 10-scoop sundaes were felled not by full tummies but by lease difficulties. Thank god Margie's is still kicking (knock on formica).

Steve's Shish Kabob Our meat-loving side is still mourning this South Side storefront, which served quite possibly the best lamb schwarma in town. Its doors were shut and the phone was cut without a warning in August.

Chilpancingo The house of mole run by Generoso Geno Bahena, acolyte of Rick Bayless, closed in February, leaving River North somewhat lightened of its tequila reserves; Bahena moved west to try his culinary hand in Southern California.

Paprikash This one only makes the list of carless, city-bound folk. While Paprikash's Chicago doors closed for good, you can still get your fill of its ghoulash and stuffed peppers—provided you trek to Arlington Heights.

Thyme Cafe Timo owner John Bubula shifted his attention to Italian eats at the sister spot on Milwaukee Avenue, and cheap French fare in Wicker Park lost out. We'll miss the $25 prix-fixe menu...as will our wallets.

MatsumotoThough we were always intrigued by the concept, the traditional 12-course kaiseki tasting meals never caught hold with the Albany Park faithful, but this Japanese restaurant was definitely an innovative foodie favorite.

Sabri Nehari Due to a massive fire on Devon during the Thanksgiving holiday, Chicago is currently at a loss for singular brain masala and excellent lamb biryani. Let's hope the makes the list of top openings for 2007.

OPENINGS

Sol de Mexico Chilpancing may have closed, but Bahena's moles recipe moved across town to these new digs run by his brother-in-law.

Mundial Cocina Mestiza Rick Bayless acolytes serve upscale Mexican on a strip known for its low-key taquerias.

Meli This welcome breakfast oasis in the heart of Greektown serves up homemade jams, eggy crepes and pillowy omelets.

sola This New American restaurant with Hawaiian and Asian accents treats seafood right; we can't get enough of the black cod.

David Burke's Primehouse NYC's culinary PT Barnum brings his three-ring circus of Kobe beef sashimi, cheesecake lollipops and salt-cured beef to Chicago.

Osteria di Tramonto Rick Tramonto and Gale Gand roll out their bid for a north shore empire with this, one of four Tramonto/Gand spots in the Westin Chicago North Shore.

May Street Market Tru and Le Francais alum Alexander Cheswick brings his new American flair to the Italian stylings of Grand Avenue.

Spacca Napoli The crust on these wood-fired pizzas is a study in perfect imperfection; the Margherita's zingy tomatoes conjures an afternoon in Naples.

Smoque BBQ Opened in December, it's already garnering raves as the best BBQ on the North Side, serving up tender singular brisket.

Cuatro This Nuevo Latino joint trumps Jerry Kleiner's singular claim to the 'hood by taking over the farthest reaches of the South Loop.

DeLaCosta There seems to be a battle between the food critics and hard core foodies as to whether this Nuevo Latino joint is worth the trip, but so far so good.