An "amphora" is a ceramic vase used for storing a wide variety of foodstuffs, from grains and oil to fish and wine. It's not surprising then, that Amphora restaurant also runs the Mediterranean gamut, infusing its dishes with elements of Greek, Italian, Moroccan, French and Middle Eastern swagger.

Don't let the flashbulb marquee fool you: Inside Amphora you'll find a sophisticated abode, where you can knock back an after-work libation or settle in for a decadent dinner. Wispy hanging plants and dark, rich woods cloak this spacious eatery, which sits on the cusp of the Rogers Park-Evanston divide.

From Greek favorites like saganaki opa (a slightly salty baked-cheese appetizer flambeed tableside then extinguished with lemon juice) to classic Italian dishes like farfalle a la fresca (bowtie pasta with grilled vegetables), Amphora encompasses the whole terrain of Mediterranean cuisine. There's even a nod to the Chicago specialty Shrimp DiJonghe, a casserole of whole peeled shrimp blanketed in garlicky, sherry-laced bread crumbs. Kudos to the wittily named Magdalena's Linguini tossed with clams, garlic and extra virgin olive oil, which is as tantalizing as it is pure.

Dishes come in small and large plates, with enough options to keep both vegetarians and carnivores salivating. There's also an ample selection of flat breads, with toppings like smoked salmon in dill sauce, babaganoush drizzled with feta and oregano or the simple, yet savory, tomato and mozzarella Marguerite. Small plates cost $8-$10, while large plates run $10-$24 and include heartier dishes like marinated lamb served with cous cous and mint au-jus. More than 30 wines, imported from around the world, standby to cleanse your palate.

Centerstage Reviewer: Anna Pulley