Before it was settled in the nineteenth century, the South Side neighborhood of Auburn Gresham was once flat swampy land. This might explain why some of the best Cajun Creole cooking outside of the arid Louisiana bayou can be found here at this bead-draped, brick-walled restaurant on the corner of West 79th and Justine.

To begin, green tomatoes coated in cornmeal are toothsome wheels of deep-fried goodness, and the cornbread is sweet and moist. One gulp of the etouffee, a chocolate-brown swamp of plump crawfish dotted with peppers and onion and surrounded by an island of white rice, will send you back to a lost afternoon in New Orleans. Lagniappe's remoulade, the ketchup of New Orleans, is above par for the Chicago course. Unlike the typical Thousand Island, spiked with Tabasco rendition, Lagniappe's rust-colored remoulade has an earthy, roasted tomato taste that translates into a cross between the classic, Southern version and a Mexican adobo sauce.

There is one caveat when it comes to dining in: Expect a minimum twelve-to-fifteen minute wait time. But there's a good reason for that: Owner Mary Madison's searing off the onion and green pepper, making the roux, and throwing the crawfish only after you place your order. Appetizers range from $2.95-$8.50 and entrees from $6.50-$10.95.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant