Formerly: Even amidst the slatted oak banquettes, marble tables and dark wood wainscoting, the cavernous expanse of exposed brick and cement flooring makes this feel a little bit like a warehouse. The good news is, it's a warehouse filled to the rafters with value-priced, tasty rustic Italian treats.

Chef John Caputo stands at the pass of the open kitchen, conducting his culinary team like a baton-wielding maestro to ensure roasted baby artichokes glisten in lemon juice and butter while smoky grilled baby octopus stays tender, and his house-made fennel sausage swims in the creamiest white polenta.

Though Caputo is fun to watch, the flicker of flame from the wood-fired oven competes for your attention, especially when the perfume from the wild mushroom, caramelized onion and Taleggio cheese pie hits your nose. But maybe the greatest treat of all is a visit to the gelato bar for a scoop of pistachio or pumpkin gelato.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant