In 2007, after more than 40 years broiling whole chickens and juicy burgers over charcoal, Charcoal D's got a much-needed facelift. A digital marquee on Foster Avenue now advertises the daily specials, which can range from a turkey burger to a Grecian chicken dinner. The facade was cleaned up and brightened, the parking lot painted, and the drive-thru extended to accommodate the wait. Still, be sure to bring along a little patience; Charcoal D's will always take longer than other fast-food joints because of its enormous menu.

Three-egg, plate-filling omelets, with hashbrowns and toast, cost $5. The half-slab ribs and half broasted chicken combo, which comes with garlic bread, coleslaw, fries or soup, plus baked potato, salad or rice, runs just shy of $16. The lunch specials, from $5 for a quarter-pound hamburger with fries and drink to an $8 cheese-steak delight, draw regulars from nearby North Park University and the CTA North Park bus garage, as well as area tradesmen, high-schoolers and families.

Orders are taken at two registers split by pans of fried and broasted chicken and trays of baklava. Get a number, take a seat and the servers/bussers will bring out your tray. Windows light the ten booths that line the rectangular dining room. The renovations included the addition of a condiment kiosk and a flat-screen TV suspended over a pair of anomalous but popular armchairs.

Settle in and enjoy the food. Maybe it's the charbroil, maybe it's the works (mustard, ketchup, relish, onions, tomatoes and pickles), maybe it's both, but the all-beef burger shames every other fast-food place—well, except for the other Charcoal D's location, in Des Plaines. Party specials are available.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Robert Duffer