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Tracy Kellner

A tasty trip through Logan Square's Provenance.

Monday Aug 21, 2006.     By Heather Blaha

Lifestyle Feed

In the six months Tracy Kellner has owned Logan Square's Provenance Food & Wine, 2528 N. California Ave., she's heard the same reaction from long-term residents, people new to the neighborhood and those who travel there to dine at one of the few local, stellar restaurants: "We're glad you're here." Kellner thought about opening a food and wine boutique for years; it was just about finding the right blend of time, place and local need.

So it's only appropriate that her shop's well-considered selection of wines, beers and food blend well. Provenance is well stocked, but intimate enough to allow for browsing without feeling overwhelmed, to ask for advice without feeling intimidated. Kellner's handwritten tasting notes, wedged in corks that sit in front of each bottle, make the experience that much more personal. In addition to a table stocked with 10 bottles under $10, Provenance offers weekly wine tastings (3-5 p.m. on Saturdays), a range of $25 cooking classes and a contagious enthusiasm for wine from both Kellner and her partner, Joe Patt. Both say they are constantly learning new things about wine, which might just make them the perfect connoisseurs.

After talking with Tracy about wine and Logan Square, I did a little shopping myself, walking away with the highly recommended Rosenbourg Riesling, a bottle of Les Quatre Terroirs Chinon and one Rio Sol from Brazil. I don't have wine notes yet, but here are my tasting notes from Tracy's take on things:

As a popular place to pick up a bottle before heading to a local restaurant, what's your favorite Logan Square BYOB dining spot?
I specifically choose a lot of restaurant wines, not only for affordability, but because I know there are so many local places without liquor licenses. My absolute favorite, though it may not be BYOB much longer, is Fonda del Mar. They have a great patio and an incredible menu, though I know they are in the process of getting a liquor license. I also love Treat, whose chef is from Lula Cafe. Treat has many amazing Indian-inspired dishes.

If I were to come to your neighborhood, where else would you insist I visit?
Lula Cafe, without a doubt. It's become such a neighborhood staple with an excellent reputation over the years. I've never had anything there that I didn't love. And Buona Terra (across the street from Provenance) is a favorite. They have a Thursday prix fixe dinner menu in which you can select any three items (appetizer, entree and dessert) for $19.95.

Favorite wine bar in town?
I'm a fan of the small portions and tastings at Enoteca Roma. The great selection there is pretty similar to ours at Provenance.

Who do you know in Chicago that our readers should know?
My partner, Joe Patt. Not only does Joe help me run Provenance, but he's also a fantastic musician and fronts the band The Royal Pines. And I can't forget Maria, the most lovely bartender ever, at the Whirlaway Lounge.

Favorite hidden gem in Chicago?
I think Logan Square is a bit of a hidden gem itself with all the beautiful boulevards and historic residences. And Humboldt Park has some great little spots like the rose garden and the pond.

Best picnic basket combo from Provenance and your favorite place to picnic?
A pretty standard picnic basket is my style: sparkling wine, a selection of nice cheeses and crackers. Throw in some Rick's Picks (various pickled vegetables from New York) and I'm set for Pratt Beach in Rogers Park, one of the grassiest, quietest beaches in the city.

Three words that best describe Provenance?
Approachable, affordable, unique.

Favorite shopping destination when you're not thinking about wine and cheese?
Well, I do love going to the grocery store. Other than that, I'm not really a big shopper. I suppose my big downfall is Lori's shoes, and my regular bargains come from scouring the home sections at places like Marshall's and TJ Maxx, where you have to dig a little. I have found some great things!

Visit provenancefoodandwine.com to learn more.

Heather Blaha takes tea (or booze, depending on the day) with a Chicagoan who knows a thing or two about the city's bars/restaurants/galleries each month. If you know some she must chat with over Earl Gray, let her know.