What if Oscar Wilde was both a magnificent writer and a sports-lovin' jock? Chances are, he'd end up at this bar and restaurant in Lakeview. Strategically positioned in that nebulous area near Broadway and Belmont where Boystown begins to fade out and Lincoln Park starts to creep in, this spot caters to both—and does so rather successfully. From the dark-wood-covered exterior to the cushy leather seats inside, this place can almost be mistaken for an upscale hotel bar/restaurant. Or maybe even a yacht club. But even though the owners obviously pulled out the dough for their new digs, the prices aren't too outrageous—for the area, that is. Expect the upscale pub sandwiches—like Oscar's midnight sirloin sandwich, roasted meatloaf, beer-battered cod and grilled salmon club—to run in the $9.95–$13.95 price range. Hey, Oscar's gotta eat in style, right?
But keeping your dropped jaw closed enough to eat might be difficult. Consider the journey into Wilde's: Past the heavy, handsome wooden door you'll find the hostess—who is nearly consumed by her huge wooden stand (almost like a reverend's pulpit at church, but way bigger). Snag a seat at one of the many wooden tables and chairs scattered throughout; gawk at the two full-size, 19th-century-style traditional Victorian bars; get caught up in sports on one of the many TV screens; gaze up at one of the many stained glass domes; look down at the fine rugs; and finally, walk right into the "library area," where you'll catch a neon-splattered portrait of Oscar himself.
The crowd here is a thorough mix of Boystown residents and Lincoln Park cats, and it's mighty surprising to see them both appeased in one space. Maybe they're sampling the Wilde macaroni and cheese ($11.95) that's covered in Irish cheddar (sorry, Kraft fans), or staying healthy (sort of) with the whole wheat pasta entree. Either way, it seems like the owners really have discovered a way to capture two markets at once.
Centerstage Reviewer: Alicia Eler
