When you're at a place where the card in the table tent has to remind you that "the food is good, too," your first priority probably isn't eating. This is most certainly the case at the Chicago outpost of the Tilted Kilt, a "chestaurant" more focused on serving an eyeful of cleavage and a gutfull of beer than a plate of haute cuisine.

Featuring a faux-Irish/Scottish theme with busty waitresses bursting out of their blouses and clad in "kilts" that are more schoolgirl fetish than Highlander, the Kilt itself is a huge Bennigans-esque space made for men. Expect wood-paneled walls, pool tables, kitsch a-plenty all over the wall, tons of TVs blaring sports programming and plenty of space at the bar and throughout the room to ogle your favorite server.

So, all objectification aside, how does the place rate when it comes to actual food and drink? They have a better-than-average bar compared to other Loop joints, featuring Budweiser's Guinness knockoff called Bareknuckle Stout (properly poured, surprisingly, for $6), an Ace Pear Cider ($5) and a house brew by Pyramid. The menu features authentic Celtic fare like, um, nachos, burgers, chicken Caesar wraps, pizzas and chicken wings. (OK, OK, to be fair, they do have fish & chips and a shepherd's pie on the menu as well.) Grand prize for the worst named item on any menu in town goes to the Tilted Kilt's "Fat Bastard Meatloaf Sandwich." Just because it's barely Scottish-related doesn't mean you have to name something after it, guys.

Bottom Line on the Kilt: It's a chain joint that makes Hooters look chaste. If you go in expecting what their tagline is selling - cold beer served by underdressed women - you'll leave plenty happy. Expect anything more at your own peril.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Karl Klockars