Social Twenty-Five has vaporized all remains of Moda; all but the lively presence of manager Vince Bucaro who has "the best job in the world." The handsome new look is Roman Sanchez, Sam Sanchez and Michael Gonzales' clever fusion of unlikely texture, material and lighting design, like vaulted ceilings patched with tiny accent lights framed in heavy rectangles of untreated wood.

Behind the wall-length bar are diagonal racks showcasing the rotation of featured wines. Opposite the bar are plush booths that sit under guitars signed by guys like Richie Sambora. The bar's central space is a dance floor positioned between a live music stage and elevated DJ pulpit attended by local favorites like Jake Reno and DJs flown in from Vegas for video performances on circuit screen.

On both floors there are countless 50-inch plasma screens for the sports fans. Sometimes when a boy and girl meet they want to spend time together, at a bar, watching a sports event, on HD. Social Twenty-Five's basement lounge has "unified sectional" loveseats, a four-quadrant divan, and several large screens curated for such a purpose. The lower-level is like a mature, urban version of a high-school basement party.

On Saturdays, Social Twenty-Five draws an initial crowd of wine enthusiasts to sample the current features, like Bucaro's favorite, Far Niente (Napa chardonnay). Grab an appetizer or entree from the neighbor, Dirty Martini's, that arrives 'magically' through the brick wall. Or perhaps there is a secret window adjoining these downtown neighbors, but that's an absolute boring theory. By 11 p.m. the traffic ticker consistently reaches 2,000 and the party energizes as nearby nightspots (Rockit, Mother Hubbard's, Howl at the Moon) close their doors. Bucaro doesn't staff the hotspot with "bouncers." The strategically positioned Herculean guys with black t-shirts and tattoos are "hosts." Isn't that nice? Speaking of nice: no cover charge - ever.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Anderson