Ranalli's pours more than 100 beers from around the world. And, while you may not be able to conquer them in an around-the-world 80-day bout, for a small fee you can join its beer-drinking club. Pace yourself, and after you have drunk its staggering roster, Ranalli's will give you an engraved pewter beer-mug (which it keeps in display cases in the bar) and a case of your favorite imports. It takes time and patience (and money, as the beer's none-too-cheap), but it's an enjoyable pastime.

Ranalli's also offers tasty Italian grub like vegetarian and pepperoni panzerotti plus double-decker and thin-crust pizza, all at fairly reasonable prices. The crowd is a pleasant mix of family-types, college students and neighborhood people. who down a slice and take advantage of the dart board, pool table and a well-stocked rock/pop jukebox, which blares loudly.