Dropping inside this Portage Park pub, you might expect to find a dorky mascot cow kicking over a pitcher of brew; however, this place gets its name after owner Bonnie O'Leary, not the woman whose clumsy bovine supposedly started the Great Chicago Fire in 1871.

A 10-minute walk from the Montrose Blue Line stop, Mrs. O'Leary’s shelters a Northwest Side swagger segueing toward modern flair. Flat screens tuned to hockey highlights, a marble bar, sunken lounge and hardwood floors head in the right direction, but don't quite nail it in a way that made a hit out of Hops and Barley’s across the street.

During days, the four-top tables draped in taupe tablecloths fill with lunch crowds in for the all-you-can-eat buffet offer ($5.99) alongside an all-you-can-eat ribs fare, $12.99. Friday evenings rake in Portage party animals for '70s, '80s and top 40 hits. On my Tuesday evening visit, I took advantage of the $2 Miller/$2 burger special – the juicy burger was just what I craved.

A small gang entertained the room with surprisingly decent remakes of Eminem and Prince classics (visit Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays for karaoke). But as the clock stroke 1 a.m., their fizz flattened with hellish attempts at Madonna’s "Jump" and Fergie's "Fergalicious."

Enjoy any number of appetizers, like jalapeno poppers and potato skins ($4.95-$10.25), beside a row of plaster arches before iridescent mocha curtains. Sit beside Mrs. O'Leary herself, holding down the bar, and have her prepare your favorite cocktail; most average $5. Daily specials hover around $6.95 and include Mrs. O'Leary’s favorite: chicken Florentine. She’ll also convince you to join the pool league, which meets on Tuesdays, after encouraging you to utilize the bar’s free Wii games.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: David-Anthony Gonzalez