It's Saturday night at Mercadito, about half past five, and things are already swinging into high gear.
Reservations were made the day prior, 5:30 p.m. being the only open slot left. My companion and I are seated in the cozy and chic lounge, on the low chocolate brown leather couches with a silky feel. The artwork behind us, tiles of the Mexican flag by well-known graffiti artist Erni Vales (he painted the New York City subways in the 1980s) lend a colorful, cosmopolitan edge to the hip ambiance. Around us, two sharply dressed young couples ease into appetizers and drinks.
The menu is traditional Mexican, with a touch of breeze from the Pacific and Gulf coasts, evident in the ceviches, mahi mahi fish tacos and prevalence of seafood. The decor, like the food, is of the light and breezy, artful variety. Mural art and baskets as light fixtures evoke a slightly tropical, yet thoroughly cosmopolitan vibe. The drink menu is just as lengthy as the array of food, with 12 types of cocktails (most with some type of tequila) six types of mezcal and various red, white, and rose wines.
Two types of freshly made guacamole served with delicately crispy homemade tortilla chips get things going in the right direction: Mango with jicama, chipotle and pico de gallo and a mole poblano version, side by side, the former garnering a bit more of my attention.
But aside from all the openers, the real steal of the show are dozen types of tacos. A friendly waitress recommends the mahi mahi with Mexican coleslaw and chipotle aioli and shrimp selections, and they arrive on large oblong platters, the small but dazzling works of art begging to be destroyed. We're advised to eat the fish tacos first, being fresh and delicate and on the verge of getting soggy. No problem. We inhale them. Next we tackle the shrimp tacos, deciding the latter are slightly more addictive, mainly due to the mysterious, subtle kick of the chipotle mojo.
Dessert? No need. Three types of homemade flan (coconut, horchata and caramel) are available for a sweet tooth fix. But trust me, it's the tacos that leave you smitten.
Average cost: <$10
Centerstage Reviewer: Marla Seidell
