In France, umbrellas hang from ceilings. It's a whimsical country, France. And in the Randolph Street Market district--west of the Loop, that would be--Marche upholds such fanciful tradition while serving a fusion of classic French and contemporary American cuisine. The place is tres chic, if "chic" is like "hip"--from the high ceilings down to the just-so-weathered wood floors. Outfitted with flowing drapes, sculptures, paintings, and nice touches of iron and glass, it's like the coolest loft you've ever seen. As is the wont of such a loft, it serves as a gathering ground for pretty people, either around tables or at the adjoining bar. Improbably, some of these gourmands are Blackhawks and/or Bulls fans, drawn by the nearby United Center.

The roasted chicken and steak frites are house specialties, and longtime followers rave about the French onion soup. The menu, however, boasts more than the traditional bistro fare, with offerings such as Atlantic salmon (with black mushroom crust) and a highly recommended roast duck. A good many wines are available by the glass, or you may consult the wine-list for a more extensive selection. Can't decide what you want? Try either the four- or five-course "chef's tasting" menus.

Available for large groups is the party room, which can accommodate up to 120 guests for a sit-down dinner affair. So if you can't have that honeymoon in gay Pah-ree, you can at least have your reception at Chicago's closest approximation.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Ryan Learmouth