In a city full of cheap, no-frills Irish joints that boast nothing more than your average pub-grub, father-and-son team Billy and William Lawless (of the Grafton Pub and the Irish Oak) took a risk by branching out. Their experiment, The Gage, gives Michigan Avenue-ers a taste of a true Irish gastropub—a public house specializing in food a few steps above greasy fish 'n' chips and corned beef. What the Grafton and Irish Oak deliver in cozy, Irish motherland feel, the Gage rivals with its sophisticated approach to the Irish-American dining experience.

A 40-foot dark-wood bar takes up most of the space on the first floor, with cozy booths around the walls and sturdy, wooden tables in the center. A couple of TVs hang around the bar, far from the center of attention, and a tin ceiling, industrial-style lights and a sleek black and sage color scheme class up the establishment. Head downstairs to a cozy, second room and another bar, an apt setting for private events.

The food and drink come with downtown price tags, but whatever you order, you'll find it worth your pennies in rich, sizable portions. Appetizers ($4-$13) include caramelized lobster, fondue and a rabbit salad, and the entrees range from your standard fish 'n' chips to smoky haddock with creme fraiche to notably juicy steaks. We favor the basic burger topped with Camembert cheese, a kind of age-old favorite with downtown flare.

If you're in the mood for something light, try the "snack food" menu: shrimp cocktail, crispy chicken liver or a giant Scotch egg (a hard boiled egg rolled in sausage, then bread crumbs, then fried and served with mustard). For booze, pick from the extensive lists of beer and whiskey, or opt for the signature martini—the Gage Cocktail—made with Pear Grey Goose, Aperol, clove-infused apple juice with a splash of cranberry and lime. Martinis cost $8-$12.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Emily Browne