Just what Chicago needs, another Italian restaurant. But Lakeview's Fianco is a welcome addition to the plethora of trattorias and pasta houses that dot every street from Little Italy to Rogers Park.

What sets Fianco apart are the handmade noodles, found in such dishes as the maltagliata (rough-cut pasta with tomato sauce, basil and ricotta) and the agnolotti (sweet pea and ricotta-stuffed "pillows" with a tarragon butter sauce, mint and parmesan). The other pasta dishes are equally tasty, notably the bucatini, a hollow spaghetti served with pancetta, shaved pecorino and surprisingly plump shrimp. Pastas cost between $14 and $15.

Those watching their carb intake can move onto the entree section of the menu, which is small but varied with choices ranging from trout, halibut and scallops to pork, chicken and duck. Each is served with a different side dish, such as risotto with the NY strip steak ($21) and gnocchi and swiss chard with the duck ($18). The list of appetizers covers all of the Italian staples, including mussels, calamari, an antipasto plate and a crostini trio.

More than 30 wines are available, with 12 available by the glass, including one prosecco. The brunch menu also has an Italian twist, with dishes such as a caprese omelet, chicken panini and bomboloni, an Italian doughnut with espresso chocolate sauce, fresh berries and vanilla bourbon gelato.

Black and white photographs of recognizable Italian scenery line Fianco's exposed brick walls. A chandelier with multicolored bulbs hangs over the bar, which is partially separated from the rest of the room with a dark red curtain. Diners should expect a lively atmosphere: All of the hard surfaces make for a sometimes noisy dining experience, which makes this place better for a group of friends than a romantic date.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Erica Walkup