Passing up Deleece Grill Pub, casual observers double take, asking themselves, "Wasn't this that one sushi place?" Owners Lynne Wallack and John Handler, the husband-and-wife team behind the reputable Deleece on Southport Avenue, pulled the plug on Shochu, the space’s previous restaurant. Sadly, they expressed the innovative Shochu idea didn’t hold up during economic downtime.

Notice DGP carries over the same lounge-like look. A fire pit lingers before a checkered couch where guests once toasted up to shochu cocktails (DGP still offers the low-calorie spirit, however doesn’t promote it). The bar, where au fait bartenders educate guests on Shigechiyo Izumi (a man whose daily dose of shochu contributed to his 120 years), preserves the trendy impression. Fern-green booths line up with exposed brick where Chicago cityscapes, shot by Wallack, hang. Wide cylinder lamps drop over dark-wood seating held up by shattered-brick tiling. And the room introduces a flat screen and a red coat over the preceding sea-foam painted walls.

The sleek, Asian inspired, skeletal remains of Shochu seem unbalanced in a place where red meat and potatoes now reign; DGP's concept centers around American-made comfort food. Peruse through several menus (cheese, whiskey and main dishes) all containing mostly American products. America's state of emergency inspired the duo in affording their share in helping the economy, even marketing a $20 three-course meal Sunday and Wednesday evenings.

Considering the red meat focus, try the beer braised beef brisket with horseradish creme fraiche, $15. Handler prides the peppercorn-crusted hanger steak covered in Billy blue goat cheese, $16. Craving a sandwich? Try the pulled pork sandwich in smoked apple barbeque and miso lychee coleslaw, $9. And cheese lovers may sample a variety of cheeses along with their favorite American wines on an outdoor patio fit for 60.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: David-Anthony Gonzalez