The bouncer guarding the industrial-chic entryway sports a mohawk and a leather jacket. He waves my party into a busy, loud, comfortable room where a well-stocked bar and funky Buddha mural compete for our attention with flat screens broadcasting the Bulls. The bar scene resembles a Chicago Social photo shoot, but the rest of space feels far more casual. Overstuffed leather booths and dim lighting suggest "scenester" bar, but the weekly specials like 10-cent wings on Monday and Friday's $5.99 fish fry, attract a wider audience.

This second Cleo's (the original spot calls Ukrainian Village home) has a developing identity. It wants to be a hip post-concert bar and an easygoing neighborhood joint, which seems fitting for Bucktown in flux.

The $3 draft specials draw a crowd, as do the doughy mini-pizzas and hearty Angus burgers. Impressive for a late-night nosh but not quite on par with the restaurants around the corner, Cleo's menu features bar and grill standards priced $6-$10. Most "plates" (formerly known as "entrees") run $8-$12, with a $20 rib eye on the high end. It offers a kids menu during the day and brunch on weekends.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Justin Sondak