You expect two things from a restaurant named Browntrout: fish and lack of pretense. Indeed, that's just what you get at this North Center eatery. The menu features a line-caught Canadian walleye-pike and Wisconsin golden trout, among others. In addition to communal eating, $5 kids meals and a housemade variation of SPAM (called "spahm," it's made with pork liver, chicken breast and pork butt and tossed in the house salad), Browntrout serves milk and cookies for dessert. If that ain't humble, I don't know what it is.

But don't come here expecting a country fish fry. With a Bin 36 alum (chef/owner Sean Sanders) in its kitchen, Browntrout is serious about dining. Thus you'll find such haute cuisine touches as fingerling potatoes, morels, haricots verts, pea tendrils and salsa verde on the walleye pike. What's more, you'll recognize all the trademarks of a truly green restaurant. With an emphasis on sustainability, Browntrout only serves local fish and produce and grass-fed beef. The kitchen uses carbon-conscious appliances and even has a device for recycling oil into biofuel.

In keeping with the green motif, Browntrout has a modern but earthy atmosphere. Fern-patterned lamps hang from the ceiling and the rich brown walls create a warm ambiance. Jazz plays softly so you and your date won't be thrown into a screaming match. It's as peaceful as the North Woods, but oh so much more sophisticated.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Amanda Nyren