Bump the start of your nighttime world into the dinner hour at Blue Fin. With a stream of techno as constant as most clubs, ambience takes on new meanings at this sushi bar-cum-lounge. Tables flocked with votive candles beckon to twosomes, while a raised platform in the rear provides seating for groups.

Designer appetizers include the Heart Attack (deep-fried jalapenos stuffed with cream cheese and spicy salmon) and the Pink Lady (teardrop-shaped slivers of bigeye tuna wrapped around unagi and avocado). A modest number of teriyaki, udon noodle and cooked fish entrees cater to non-sushi eaters. Those with a hankering for the good stuff will likely bypass the standard but solid maki menu and head straight to the roster of "Blue Fin" maki. Rolls run $9-$13, and include the Black Dragon (scallops with spicy mayo wrapped in unagi, avocado and black tobiko) and Spicy Kani Tuna (spicy tuna and tempura crunches over spicy Alaskan king crab). At-the-right-price lunch specials include a $10 miso soup, spicy tuna maki and spider maki combo.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz