If there's one thing Andersonville was just begging to add to its culinary repertoire, it's down home, deep-fried, good old Southern cooking. Too bad (so sad) Big Jones' take on Southern cuisine is more high-class than homegrown, as if the yuppies of the new millennium went back in time in their $60,000 DeLoreans to the plantations of old just so they could remake their food.

Visually, there's a definite similarity to the kind of interior decoration you might find in the American South (or so "Designing Women" would have us believe); the walls are lime-green over skin-color trim, with low-lit lamps on woven straw mats and old-fashioned chairs that beg to rock back and forth but lack the mechanism to do so.

Eight baby-back ribs atop a pile of onion rings will set you back about $24, which is the first sign that you're a long way from Podunk, Georgia. But few though they are — not to mention light on the precious meat you came to eat — they taste like candy bars on bones (metaphorically) and make you sweat out your mouth they're so good. Or, if you want something slightly cheaper and slightly more meat-heavy, try the Tallgrass beef sirloin, $22. On the sandwich side of things (all of which range from $10-$14), your best bet is the Tallgrass beef burger ($14) which is enormous and especially fantastic in the buttery-bun department.

Big Jones isn't the biggest place on the block, and it's usually packed tighter than John Travolta's pants in "Saturday Night Fever." So this hopping place often becomes a very loud and hopping place, therefore rendering the music coming out of the overhead speakers useless. Oh well. With food this good, who needs tunes?

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Benjamin Andrew Moore