Azucar translates to "sugar." Dream up every connotation that word has—sweet, darling, saccharine—and you'll have an arsenal of appropriate adjectives with which to describe this tapas spot.

Adding a hip new business to a slowly changing neighborhood requires plenty of forethought, and it's apparent that owner/Logan Square resident Robert Rosado made some sweet decisions. In keeping with the cozy 'hood, the space isn't too big for its britches: The rectangular restaurant features only 10 tables (including two choice spots next to the storefront's windows) and a long heavy bar that sees most of the action late-night. And late-night it often is, as the restaurant's midnight-to-2 a.m. closing time gives Logan Square something else it could use: another place to grab a cocktail and chat.

Cocktail-wise, sangria is unsurprisingly the name of the game, though you'd be smart to go with the specialty version: a hefty goblet topped off with a splash of champagne. Chef Matt Saccaro (formerly of Socca) handles the beyond-the-bar action; in addition to Spanish standards like empanadas and patatas bravas, crispy potatoes with a spicy tomato sauce and paprika aioli, you'll find pan-seared sea bass with a blood-orange vinaigrette and roasted rack of lamb with vanilla-infused port sauce and thyme paella rice. Prices range from unremarkable ($5 for the potatoes) to a little steep ($14 for the lamb).

Be sure to end with a little sugar—the super-rich chocolate terrine will delight any brownie lover—just don't be surprised if it comes paired with a side of schmooze that can feel a bit saccharine: Regardless of how much or little you chat with the bartender, expect a free cocktail. Sure, it seems nice and neighborhoody, but let's hope it's not just a plot to come across as nice and neighborhoody.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz