NOW CLOSED...Formerly: So, in case you didn't get it from the giant fish on the Darwin's sign, the theme here is evolution. That concept plays out bar-food-with-a-twist, and recurs throughout the menu headings ("In the Beginning") and ambience. The two-room exposed-brick bar and grill also contains an old-school Nintendo machine, a jukebox, several booths and a bar TV that played the Sox game on low volume when I visited.
This comfy, neighborhood spot reopened in September 2005 after a seven-month hiatus, and is equally comfortable for an informal dinner or an evening drink with friends. The service is attentive and prompt and the food is surprisingly diverse for a bar & grill menu, with some tasty seasonal touches and an eclectic beer menu. Standard bar fare like nachos and cheese ($5.95) are accompanied by white beans, a spinach tortilla and creme fraiche, and the "primordial soup" ($2.95) is a delicious and subtle blend of pumpkin and jalapeno. The wedge of fried brie ($7.95) is by far the best appetizer, served with a small salad and bits of bread. It is vegetarian-friendly, with a veggie burger ($8.50) and penne primavera ($10.95) offered alongside a bacon and brie burger ($9.95) and "cow pie" (homemade meatloaf) for ($9.95).
One odd note: Instead of ringing a bell when a meal is ready, the kitchen staff sounds a contraption that sounds alarmingly like a honking duck (or a person with a head cold). If that kind of thing shakes you up, I'd advise a seat in the well-lit front room instead.
Reviewed By: Gretchen Kalwinski
